Could not help it…

Foredeck Monthly


How low will it go?

$19K? Offers accepted?

I don’t know anything about this boat other that what’s on YachtWorld. Not a huge fan of the wheel but for that price…

La Penogg

Race Record

  • Stamford Denmark Race – won spinnaker division 2 times
  • North Sails Spring Series Champion
  • Port Jefferson Harbor Cup – 1st Overall 2 times
  • Mt. Sinai Sailing Association Barrucci Cup & Fixman Memorial Trophy
  • LISYRA Roger Shope Memorial Trophy Winner
  • Cutty Sark Trophy – Huntington Yacht Club

Stove out, stove in

The Admiral and I agreed that the old Seward GSI propane stove would have to go.

First clean out all the mold and rust. Then lug that heavy sucker off the boat and to the recycle shack.

Fair the rough fiberglass and gaps with System 3 QuickFair – love this stuff.
Sand. Fair. Sand again. Fair. Sand one more time. Missed a spot; are you !@#$*& kidding me? Fair. Sand yet again.

2 coats of primer, 2 coat of SeaGloss one part polyurethane – white. Roll & tip process.

All the crap needed for this project.

Don’t touch it. Don’t try to pick out the bug! Stop. Don’t do it! Oh great. Didn’t I tell you! See now you ruined it and will have to touch it up!

After a ton of research we agreed on the Origo 3000 unit – $380 at West Marine.

Here’s our reasoning:

  • Simple – no wires, no hoses, no solenoid, no sniffers.
  • Compact – No external tank, switch and pressure valve taking up space in the locker.
  • Lightweight – 1/3 third the weight of the old one.
  • No Oven – We didn’t want a traditional oven since most of them suck at being ovens and we’re going to install a microwave below it later anyway.
  • Safer fuel – No chance of boat go boom.
  • Most of our boating is racing, daysailing and the occasional overnight or 3-4 day cruise.


  • Not as hot. I estimate water takes about 25% longer to boil.
  • Filling the tanks with fuel is kind of a pain. The biggest problem is the stupid 1 gallon containers that the alcohol comes in. Steel cans prone to rust that that don’t pour worth a damn. Working on a solution.
  • You have to light the burner by hand. We use the long butane lighters.
  • Flame can be difficult to see in bright sunlight without a pot on it.

So far we’re pretty happy with it. The microwave install is next.

Sailing by the braille method!

Yesterday I took my 19 year old daughter and her boyfriend sailing. His first time on a big boat.
I was blowing a steady 20 kts with gusts to 25. We spend some time charging and bouncing around the ‘fun zone’ of Haro Strait where the strong ebb tide was against the wind. We had the #3 up and a reef in the main. All was well and they had a great time taking turns and the helm and grinding in the jib.
Wanting to have smoother water to each lunch we headed up into Garrison Bay near English Camp National Historic Park, short tacking around the anchored boats. During the run down into and Wescott Bay we broke out the french bread, salami and manchego cheese. As we were rounding Bell Pt the boat slowly came to a stop, almost like a car at a stop sign. What?! We should have plenty of water here. We pivoted toward the shore, beam on to the wind and stuck fast in the mud.

  • Engine in reverse – no.
  • Sheet in the sails to heel over and slide off – nope
  • Everybody on leeward side – nada.
  • Combination of all the above – zip

It was low tide and the mud was soft so I figured just we’d just have lunch and wait for the tide to come up in an hour of so.

Before we could take our first bites a yachtsman anchored nearby came to try to pull us off in his dinghy. He couldn’t really develop much uumph with his 9.9 HP outboard. I give him my spare spinnaker halyard to try to pull the mast over. Still not enough. I dug out our fortress anchor and 40′ of chain and 250′ of rode, attached the bitter end to the halyard and he motored it downwind and set it. We pulled it in but there was so much slack and stretch in the line that we got to the halyard’s shackle before we could exert any real force. We disconnected the halyard and put the anchor rode on the winch. This was starting to work! Everybody on the low side.

A crowd had gathered to watch on the shore while several other people showed up, a woman in her dinghy who had run aground in this same spot the day before, an older gentleman who had drug anchor that morning in Garrison bay, a tender with guys, wives and kids with a 90 on the back. With their help we spun the boat toward deep water and suddenly popped off!

Now the fun begins! Sails and up and sheeted hard with took off with the bow line still connected to the tender and the anchor rode still on the genoa winch. We quickly started dragging the tender backwards and quickly  burning through the anchor line. We finally untie the bow line and just as the last few feet of anchor line slipped over the side the gentleman in the dinghy grabs our grabs it to prevent our losing the whole kit to the deep.   We drop the jib, and motor into the wind as the kind gentleman brings back our anchor, chain and line.

Profuse thank you ensue.

Then my baseball cap then blows off and the kind gentleman retrieves that also.

With everything except my dignity back on board we motor-sail back to the dock.

In review here are the lessons learned:

  • Review the chart – even though you’ve been here before things are different at low tide.
  • Don’t relax just cause you’re out of the ‘fun zone’.
  • We did the right things trying to heel the boat over and slide off. Waiting an hour for the tide to come up would have helped. We could have also had lunch and skipped the fire drill.
  • Have a plan for when you come off.
  • Tie a fender to the anchor line. That way you can just throw it over and pick it up at your leisure.
  • The kindness and willingness of fellow sailors to help never ceases to amaze me. Thanks to all!

Speed tips?

Some more newbie questions…
1) My boat is equipped for a cutter/staysail (it’s not rigged now) and came with a set of running backstays.  I get they are needed when I rig the staysail but how about without it?  Did the boat originally come with the running backstays and when do you use them?  Is there a way to look at mast bend or backstay pressure and see when you are in the range of needing the backstays?
2) Has anyone shared any go fast tips or tuning experience…any comments about real world vs the polars.
Jim (Sabrina)

Hi Jim,
We have check stays on our boat. These go from the aft corner to about 2/3 the way up the mast. Their function is to stop he mast from ‘pumping’ when going upwind in the chop with the backstay cranked on. In the Pacific Northwest we don’t use them all that much due to lack of wind/chop. It’s easy to watch the mast pump. In 15 knts+ go forward and sight up the front of the mast. Really put your eyeball right on the metal and focus about half way up. Can’t miss it going back and forth. Sort of spooky. A little bit is normal – say an inch or two – but anymore and I’d pull on the check stays. Remember to release them when you tack/gybe! On the check stay we have these EZLock rope clutches that anything but EZ! They defy logic and are a total pain in the ass if you ask me.
2) The polars are pretty close. We don’t seem to be quite that fast upwind but we’re close. The downwind angles seem to be good. My E34 doesn’t like to be pinched upwind. Footing of 5 degrees makes a world of difference to the VMG. That being said, without 5 people on the rail I don’t seem to be able to hang with the more weatherly boats. We do catch them on the downwind leg though…
Controlling weather helm is another big issues. Upwind I have one crew dedicated to working the traveler. In stronger winds the main will often have a large bubble in the luff. Reefing helps but a lot of times I’m just trying to get to the windward mark so I’ll suffer with being overpowered for a bit so I don’t have put in and then take out the reef. Lazy, I know!
The backstay is your friend for flattening the main as the wind picks up. I’m monkeying with mast rake as we speak to find the optimum balance.
Hope this helps
Greg S.
Wailana – Hull #1
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