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Are you light?

It’s still out there. Reply to this post.

Hi guys, I have a very good light # 1 if someone can use it $500 let me know.



Sucker for a sale

So West Marine had a two for one sale on winches. One of my old trusty Barients 27 two-speed winches had been acting up so I took the bait and bought 2 new Lewmar self-tailers for my genoa/jib. If any Express 34 owner wants my old winches you can have them for the cost of shipping. Just reply to this post.

One of them has a loose pawl mechanism that will cause it to slip on occasion. One has the standard roller bearings and one has a Delrin sleeve as the bearing which seems to work fine. They were serviced about two years ago.


Greg S. – Wailana – Hull #1

Fridge Sump Drain – Part 2

Please, please, please…

After 2 hours trying I gave up. I could not bend my hand in the correct position to remove the hose clamp. No way. No how.

Plan B – Remove the salon seat and attack it from under the stove side. First empty the fresh water bladder tank. Put down multiple cushions. Set up the flashlights. Tape together every socket extension I own. Crawl in head first. Barely reach it. Trying to get the socket on the clamp is like the prisoners in the Disney’s Pirates of the Caribbean ride trying to get the key from the dog.

The extension

Finally got it off. Pulled the hose and look what I found. A screw in the ninety degree elbow! That might be a problem.

Well that could be a problem.

Rebuilt the pump. Installed it. Put in new lines. New strainers top and bottom. New clamps. Exhausted and psychically worn out I flipped the breaker! Nothing.
Are you #%%&*! kidding me!  Seriously, WTF? I am going to lose my mind!

Dry my tears, start the troubleshooting process. No power to the pump, oh wait…remember you turned off the main breaker? You idiot.
Try it now…success! Yea!

Break down

The hardest button to button

Why do I do this to myself! This was supposed to be a simple project!

You see, the Jabsco Mini-Puppy sump pump used to drain excess water from the fridge would run for 20 seconds and then blow the circuit breaker. I blew out the lines thinking they were clogged. That tasted yummy.
Not clogged. I pulled the pump, lubed the impeller and tested it. Ran fine. Pumped water no problem. I was stumped.

Hello Google. You’re my new best friend.

Turned out the impeller had taken a ‘set’. This a permanent deformation of the rubber. You see, the lube I applied allow it to work for short time. After I ran it in a bucket for 5 minutes, sure enough it stopped.  Here’s a quick and dirty hack; flip the impeller around so the vanes rotate the other way will sometimes bring them back to life. It did for me.

But I ordered another one just to be safe.

Here’s where it gets stupid. I call it project feature creep.
While I’m down here I should replace these old lines. Have you ever tried to access the elbow coming out of the bottom of the fridge? First off you can’t see. Second, it’s dark and gross. Third, a double jointed cat would have problems getting in there! My arm fits barely and my fingers can just touch the fitting if don’t mind losing skin to the rough edges. So far I’ve managed to get a quarter turn off of the lowest clamp. I’ve also managed to drop the flashlight (twice) and the screwdriver. Retrieving said tools involves Red Cross levels of blood donation and newly invented swear words.

I gave up for the day. Did I mentions that the tubes and fittings are working just fine.  Feeling depressed I turned my attention toward the pump. I installed the new impeller and things work just dandy.  Oh hey there Mr. OCD, there is  some rust on the outside of the pump. You should clean that off. How far does it go? I don’t know, I’ll drill off the mounting bracket rivets and oh man that’s pretty bad. I should repaint that. While I’m at it I should disassemble the entire unit and clean it from top to bottom.

This is how I take a two hour project turn it into a two week project. More to come..

The portal to hell…

The sump drain for the fridge. “Don’t drop the phone…”

Is it OK to kick a puppy?

Down Shift

So my old Morse – model B42924 – shifter/throttle was starting to get sticky and hard to move. I disconnected the linkages and made sure it wasn’t their fault. Then removed the unit; surprisingly easy for a change! The two big bolts were rusty so I replaced those. Took the unit apart and snapped a bunch of pictures during the process because I know me. “I’ll remember how this goes back together!” Yea, right. I can barely remember that it’s sock THEN shoes!

The thing is packed with nasty grease. cleaning all the grease out was the worst part. Most of it by hand, paper towels and Q-Tips. Then a dip in the eco-friendly degreaser overnight. Worked OK but didn’t touch the thick stuff. More hand work. I cleaned up the corroded threads with a tap and die set. My new favorite toy. Re-greased with Super-Lube and put the whole thing back together using my pictures. Upon reinstalling I torqued the most forward screw slightly too tight and put a little dimple in the fiberglass. Oh well.

So much nicer! Smooth and the throttle stays put in low idle forward.

The Unicorn 34

Somebody had to be the first! Check out more from Doug W. on Last Call ex Piranha.

I own the Express 34 “Last Call” here in Traverse City, and we have had great success this our first season. I bought the boat last fall, and last winter I bought a new carbon Quantum main and genoa for my new boat. We receive a three second credit from LMPRHF for using a roller fuller for the genoa. Other than the roller fuller, my boat was completely stock, with all nine original winches and a heavy aluminum dip pole setup. Al. The deck hardware is in place for runners, but I don’t even have them on the mast. We raced jib and main for Spring and Summer Series and we won those. For Twightlight Series, I had enough crew interest to step back into the spinnaker fleet, and I converted the boat to end for end. Luckily, I had a carbon spinnaker pole, a spinnaker pole car, and twing blocks left over from a J33 I used to own. The pole is a couple inches too short, but it’s probably a quarter of the weight of the aluminum pole and so much easier to use than a dip pole setup. We used the twings in conjunction with the original foreguy. We won our twightlight series using that configuration.

Now for fall series, we are using yet another configuration. My last boat was a J92, and I’ve done a bunch of racing on Melges 24, a J105, and a J109. My experience on those boats convinced me that the funest way to sail is with a roller fuller and a sprit. Since our kites are ancient (original??), I needed a new one and made the decision to go to an asymmetrical kite on a sprit. For LMPHRF, I get a six second credit to go to a center tacked spinnaker, so I chose to increase the size of the kite and add sprit to offset that credit. The biggest I can go for a six second penalty meant a 24% increase in the size of the kite from 850ish sf to 1050sf, and a 24% increase in the J dimension, which amounts to a 3.12’ long sprit. I’m only using the sprit for kites (no Code 0 and resulting requirement for a bob stay), so I chose to go with a Selden deck-mounted sprit. It is the cheapest option out there, very easy to use, and meets my requirement to be fully retractable for me to fit in my 35’ slip. I bought a very affordable 0.7 ounce Airx custom kite from David Benjamin at Island Planet Sails (highly recommend). We’ve only raced with the new configuration once, but the boat seems much more lively, is certainly more fun, and makes the mark roundings so much less dramatic / do I dare say fun. Initial results are promising. No more spinnaker poles on my Express 34!

Spinnaker Discussion

Here’s part of an email conversation I’ve been having with Kimbal on ‘Hall Aboard’. Feel free to chime in by hitting ‘Reply’.

I’ve been getting my racing kicks in the club J22s this summer while I’m getting the E34 up to speed.  I’ve done some overnight cruising with the family on the boat, and sailed it enough to learn a bunch of the systems and what it needs.  
A couple of the things that did not come with the boat that I’ll need to figure out in the near future are:
The boat did not come with any spinnaker gear.  At this point I’m planning on end-for-end gybing with the pole with single sheet/guy and twings.  I don’t have secondary winches in the cockpit, which is the main reason for single sheet/guy.  I was also leaning towards a carbon pole over aluminum since I think that would make a big job easier to handle on the foredeck.
Since the boat doesn’t have secondary winches, there is no place to adjust the running backstay.  In fact, only the starboard side even has a block for the runners.  I’ve seen the mast pump a bit, and when I was a kid my Dad had a E37 which he raced in SF and he DEFINITELY used the runners, and I remember them being pretty loaded up.  I think the E34 is the same mast section, but since it is a bit shorter with less sail area, it should be proportionately stronger.  Probably still needs the runners though.  Do you use the secondary winches for the runners?
Thanks for maintaining the blog, its a great resource!

Hi Kimbal,
I do end for end gybes also. I tried the dip pole but it was too complicated for my various crew members. Practice? What is that? A carbon pole would be the trick! 
I don’t use the check stays much since we don’t have big wind and waves here very often. When I do I just really crank them arm tight. They are spectra so they don’t stretch much. Seems to stop the worst of the pumping.