Tag Archives: Alsberg Express 34

Raw Water Blues

So my Yanmar 3YM20 engine is pretty new ~600 hrs – which for a diesel is barely just getting out of bed in the morning. A couple of weeks ago I noticed some water in the bilge and back traced it to the seawater pump on the engine. The hoses were my first suspects but they turned out to be fine.
I pulled the pump and found it was leaking from one of the seals around the bearing on the shaft. After doing some research I had three options:

  1. Rebuild the pump myself
  2. Buy a new pump
  3. Have somebody else rebuild it

I could have rebuilt it myself but I don’t have a bearing press. Yes…I know I could constructed a homemade press using a rudimentary lathe but the it seemed like a hassle and something with lots of fiddly bits and parts in freezers that I’m prone to screw up.

I called the local Yanmar dealer and gave them the part number.
“We don’t have that and we don’t know what it is… can you send us pictures?”
Are you serious? I sent them pictures.
“Hmm…never seen one like that before…not in our books…don’t know…we have something similar for $350”
Yanmar dealers out of your area won’t even talk to you. $350? Are you kidding me?

So bless the electronic heart of the internet I found Tony at the Flying Dutchman Pump Rebuilders.

For a $130 he cleaned it, rebuilt the pump, including machining the shaft and surfacing the face plate, installed new stainless steel  springs and explained to me what was wrong and why these crappy pumps routinely fail and that I should use Super Lube grease when I change my impeller. Oh, and that includes shipping back to me.

And he painted it.

Tony and his crew are my heroes!

Flying Dutchman
Tony Coenradi
200 Davis Creek Road
Selma, OR  97538    USA
Toll free (U.S. and Canada) 1-888-595-1110

The Less-Than-Stellar Raw Water Pump

Close up of the old leaking raw water (seawater) pump.

The rebuilt pump!



The microwave

To complete the transition from the old propane GSI stove I’ve wired a new circuit and installed an microwave oven. Hardest part was routing the wire underneath the fridge and stove fiberglass liner. My arms aren’t long enough so I had to use a fish tape. Installed a GFCI outlet with a weatherproof box. The strap holds it from bouncing around but the oven slides a little bit on the glossy paint so I’ll have to fix that…

Microwave oven

How low will it go?

$19K? Offers accepted?

I don’t know anything about this boat other that what’s on YachtWorld. Not a huge fan of the wheel but for that price…

La Penogg

Race Record

  • Stamford Denmark Race – won spinnaker division 2 times
  • North Sails Spring Series Champion
  • Port Jefferson Harbor Cup – 1st Overall 2 times
  • Mt. Sinai Sailing Association Barrucci Cup & Fixman Memorial Trophy
  • LISYRA Roger Shope Memorial Trophy Winner
  • Cutty Sark Trophy – Huntington Yacht Club


Stove out, stove in

The Admiral and I agreed that the old Seward GSI propane stove would have to go.

First clean out all the mold and rust. Then lug that heavy sucker off the boat and to the recycle shack.

Fair the rough fiberglass and gaps with System 3 QuickFair – love this stuff.
Sand. Fair. Sand again. Fair. Sand one more time. Missed a spot; are you !@#$*& kidding me? Fair. Sand yet again.

2 coats of primer, 2 coat of SeaGloss one part polyurethane – white. Roll & tip process.

All the crap needed for this project.

Don’t touch it. Don’t try to pick out the bug! Stop. Don’t do it! Oh great. Didn’t I tell you! See now you ruined it and will have to touch it up!

After a ton of research we agreed on the Origo 3000 unit – $380 at West Marine.

Here’s our reasoning:

  • Simple – no wires, no hoses, no solenoid, no sniffers.
  • Compact – No external tank, switch and pressure valve taking up space in the locker.
  • Lightweight – 1/3 third the weight of the old one.
  • No Oven – We didn’t want a traditional oven since most of them suck at being ovens and we’re going to install a microwave below it later anyway.
  • Safer fuel – No chance of boat go boom.
  • Most of our boating is racing, daysailing and the occasional overnight or 3-4 day cruise.


  • Not as hot. I estimate water takes about 25% longer to boil.
  • Filling the tanks with fuel is kind of a pain. The biggest problem is the stupid 1 gallon containers that the alcohol comes in. Steel cans prone to rust that that don’t pour worth a damn. Working on a solution.
  • You have to light the burner by hand. We use the long butane lighters.
  • Flame can be difficult to see in bright sunlight without a pot on it.

So far we’re pretty happy with it. The microwave install is next.

Speed tips?

Some more newbie questions…
1) My boat is equipped for a cutter/staysail (it’s not rigged now) and came with a set of running backstays.  I get they are needed when I rig the staysail but how about without it?  Did the boat originally come with the running backstays and when do you use them?  Is there a way to look at mast bend or backstay pressure and see when you are in the range of needing the backstays?
2) Has anyone shared any go fast tips or tuning experience…any comments about real world vs the polars.
Jim (Sabrina)

Hi Jim,
We have check stays on our boat. These go from the aft corner to about 2/3 the way up the mast. Their function is to stop he mast from ‘pumping’ when going upwind in the chop with the backstay cranked on. In the Pacific Northwest we don’t use them all that much due to lack of wind/chop. It’s easy to watch the mast pump. In 15 knts+ go forward and sight up the front of the mast. Really put your eyeball right on the metal and focus about half way up. Can’t miss it going back and forth. Sort of spooky. A little bit is normal – say an inch or two – but anymore and I’d pull on the check stays. Remember to release them when you tack/gybe! On the check stay we have these EZLock rope clutches that anything but EZ! They defy logic and are a total pain in the ass if you ask me.
2) The polars are pretty close. We don’t seem to be quite that fast upwind but we’re close. The downwind angles seem to be good. My E34 doesn’t like to be pinched upwind. Footing of 5 degrees makes a world of difference to the VMG. That being said, without 5 people on the rail I don’t seem to be able to hang with the more weatherly boats. We do catch them on the downwind leg though…
Controlling weather helm is another big issues. Upwind I have one crew dedicated to working the traveler. In stronger winds the main will often have a large bubble in the luff. Reefing helps but a lot of times I’m just trying to get to the windward mark so I’ll suffer with being overpowered for a bit so I don’t have put in and then take out the reef. Lazy, I know!
The backstay is your friend for flattening the main as the wind picks up. I’m monkeying with mast rake as we speak to find the optimum balance.
Hope this helps
Greg S.
Wailana – Hull #1
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