Tag Archives: Expres 27

Head Remodle

So the Admiral and I agreed that the head area needed  work. It was dark, dingy, full of holes and rough edges. Restoring the wood to it’s natural state was going to be too much work and would never really look right due to the holes and discoloration over the years.
So we filled the holes sanded and painted. Along the way we changed out the faucet, re-routed the drainage off the mast and covered the ugly holes from the old holding tank & toilet.

Then sanded and primed and painted with a one part polyurethane (West Marine Sea Gloss White).

It was an amazing amount of work for such a small space! Took twice as long as I expected!

After painting the door we decided to use a fabric curtain. This was lighter and gave a big guy like me a little extra elbow room.

Pretty happy with the results!

Greg S. – Wailana – Hull #1




Stove out, stove in

The Admiral and I agreed that the old Seward GSI propane stove would have to go.

First clean out all the mold and rust. Then lug that heavy sucker off the boat and to the recycle shack.

Fair the rough fiberglass and gaps with System 3 QuickFair – love this stuff.
Sand. Fair. Sand again. Fair. Sand one more time. Missed a spot; are you !@#$*& kidding me? Fair. Sand yet again.

2 coats of primer, 2 coat of SeaGloss one part polyurethane – white. Roll & tip process.

All the crap needed for this project.

Don’t touch it. Don’t try to pick out the bug! Stop. Don’t do it! Oh great. Didn’t I tell you! See now you ruined it and will have to touch it up!

After a ton of research we agreed on the Origo 3000 unit – $380 at West Marine.

Here’s our reasoning:

  • Simple – no wires, no hoses, no solenoid, no sniffers.
  • Compact – No external tank, switch and pressure valve taking up space in the locker.
  • Lightweight – 1/3 third the weight of the old one.
  • No Oven – We didn’t want a traditional oven since most of them suck at being ovens and we’re going to install a microwave below it later anyway.
  • Safer fuel – No chance of boat go boom.
  • Most of our boating is racing, daysailing and the occasional overnight or 3-4 day cruise.


  • Not as hot. I estimate water takes about 25% longer to boil.
  • Filling the tanks with fuel is kind of a pain. The biggest problem is the stupid 1 gallon containers that the alcohol comes in. Steel cans prone to rust that that don’t pour worth a damn. Working on a solution.
  • You have to light the burner by hand. We use the long butane lighters.
  • Flame can be difficult to see in bright sunlight without a pot on it.

So far we’re pretty happy with it. The microwave install is next.

That sticky-uppy thingy! (Mast care)

Stepping the mast on Wailana

Stepping the mast on Wailana

This is from the Express 27 site but it applies to the Express 34 and the 37.

Bit o’ Trivia – Why are the Express masts black? Black anodizing lasts much longer that other types. As per Buzz Ballenger.

Ballenger Spar Systems

Sailboat Masts, Booms, and Rigging

Care and Maintenance of Express 27 Spars

Spars, like all other equipment, require routine maintenance and inspection. Many of the E27s that have been built are now getting to be four or five years old and are in need of a serious inspection to prevent future problems. Checking for fatigue and wear are fairly simple and can prevent a multitude of problems that can lead to failure of the spar. Racing in San Francisco Bay is some of the toughest on equipment in the country, and maintaining a periodic inspection and maintenance routine is very good preventive medicine. I would like to outline where the problem areas are, and the possible solutions.

Hounds area— This is the area of the highest loading on the spar. It is subjected to constant loading and unloading and will develop fatigue problems eventually. The first sign of fatigue is generally a small crack across the top of the hounds box weld. Repairs should be made immediately and are fairly simple. This type of problem will occur mostly in masts that are bent a lot and are raced hard. This area should be checked often.

Topping lift box— The slot that the box is installed in can begin to show fatigue also. The first indication is a small crack forming from one of the corners of the slot. The fix is to install two doublers (bar stock) on either side of the box slot.

Standing rigging— Check for broken strands, cracked swage fittings, kinked rod uppers,etc. Boats that have Navtangs installed for the upper rod (virtually all, identifiable by the stainless steel caps that are visible on the upper rod termination) should be sure that the tie rod is well lubricated and that both caps are able to move freely. Inspect the turnbuckles for bent studs, toggles or worn clevis pins.

Lubricate sheaves— Both the main halyard and jib sheaves should be lubricated with a heavy bodied lubricant (lithium grease is a good type) frequently. Lack of lubrication can lead to premature wear or galling of the metal parts. Halyard life and ease of operation will be compromised.

Halyard chafe— Check to be sure that there are no deep gouges in the stainless steel chafe guard at the jib hounds. If you find the chafe guard to be rough, file or sand it smooth, and have the deep gouges filled with weld and smoothed out. Also check to see that the masthead crane isn’t damaged by the main halyard where it exits at the back of the mast. A stainless steel chafe guard can be installed to minimize further chafing. Inspect the halyard exits for any cuts in the aluminum. The addition of stainless steel rub bars on the upper end of the exit will eliminate further chafe.

Mast butt— Inspect the butt of the mast to make sure that the bottom is not corroded and that the fasteners that attach the mast to the base plate are secure. If severe corrosion is found, slight trimming or a small external sleeve can solve the problem. When the mast is stepped and the rig is at its standard rake, check to see that the front of the base plate is in contact with the bottom plate. If there is a gap greater than about 1/16th” the bottom of the mast should be trimmed to allow the base plate to contact the bottom plate. This contact is important in that it insures engagement of the mast step pin and reduces loading on the hinge. This is very important to check on any boat that is using a longer headstay than was supplied with the standard boat. Our current standard butt angle cut is 2 degrees.

Spreaders and bars— Remove the spreaders from the spreader bars and the tips from the spreader extrusions. Make sure that the spreader bars are not cut deeply by the halyards(caused by installing the halyards in front of the bars). Replace if necessary. Reinstall with all of the halyards behind both spreader bars. Install the spreaders and tips using silicone or Never-Seize on the screws. Be sure that the screws are not stripped and are secure. It is a good idea to seize or tape the spreader tips in position. To avoid a case of droopy spreaders. A ball of tape below each spreader works, as does seizing with waxed thread. The dihedral angle (upsweep) of the upper spreader is approximately 5 degrees and the lower spreader 3 degrees. The idea is to bisect the angle of the shrouds running over the tips. That makes the lateral spreader loading mostly compressive.

Anodizing after several years of use— The anodized finish on the spars can become dull, and marked. To clean the surface and renew the color, make a paste out of any abrasive type cleaner (Comet, etc.) and water. Scrub the surface of the spars with the paste and a soft sloth. Rinse with water and apply Armor-All or paste wax. NEVER use anything that has a caustic base (lye, some paint strippers, bilge cleaner, etc.) on the anodize since it will strip the color from the surface. Rinsing the spars with water after sailing is important to reduce corrosion problems.

I hope this information will be of use to identify any potential problems before they become serious. We always welcome questions about any of the spars that we have built and can solve most problems over the phone. Please feel free to call about more specific information.

Good sailing,
Buzz Ballenger
215 Walker St, Watsonville CA 95076

[NOTE: Buzz Ballenger is a true friend of the Express 27 Class. He knows all about spars and rigging; his service is prompt; and his prices are reasonable. He and the guys in his shop couldn’t be nicer to deal with, in my experience.

Even though I’ve got a Klacko spar Buzz has always answered all my spar questions. Super guy, super company and the makers of the original Express 34 spars.

Express Poster

Yea, I know it’s not the Express 34, but my friend Greg Taylor gave me this Express 27 Nationals poster before he passed away suddenly of a heart attack in 2015.
Greg worked for Alsberg Brothers Boatworks back in the 1980s and helped construct the 27, 37 and 34. He told me the team that made the mold for the 34 was brought in from Europe and were detailed oriented and very secretive.  He had nothing but good things to say about the 34 and all the boats coming out of Alsberg Bros. He enjoyed his time there and eventually married his wife Judy, had two beautiful children, Lindsey and Jordan. Greg and the family moved up to San Juan Island where he started a construction business and bought his pride and joy ‘Spikenard’, an Express 37. He crewed for me on a couple of occasions. A great sailor and a good friend. My wife had the poster framed for me for Christmas. A very special gift.

It depicts an Express 27 flying a spinnaker going over the roller coaster in Santa Cruz, CA. Notice the yellow visor is flying through the air. Nice touch.

Bottom left says, “In memory of Jay Collins”. Bottom right says, “Michael Abbey – Visual Communications”

All the best to you and yours in 2017. Tell your friends and family you love them often, sail as much as you can and be safe.

Greg S. – Wailana – Express 34 Hull #1

Express 27 Nationals Poster

Express 27 Nationals Poster