Tag Archives: Express 34

Raw Water Blues

So my Yanmar 3YM20 engine is pretty new ~600 hrs – which for a diesel is barely just getting out of bed in the morning. A couple of weeks ago I noticed some water in the bilge and back traced it to the seawater pump on the engine. The hoses were my first suspects but they turned out to be fine.
I pulled the pump and found it was leaking from one of the seals around the bearing on the shaft. After doing some research I had three options:

  1. Rebuild the pump myself
  2. Buy a new pump
  3. Have somebody else rebuild it

I could have rebuilt it myself but I don’t have a bearing press. Yes…I know I could constructed a homemade press using a rudimentary lathe but the it seemed like a hassle and something with lots of fiddly bits and parts in freezers that I’m prone to screw up.

I called the local Yanmar dealer and gave them the part number.
“We don’t have that and we don’t know what it is… can you send us pictures?”
Are you serious? I sent them pictures.
“Hmm…never seen one like that before…not in our books…don’t know…we have something similar for $350”
Yanmar dealers out of your area won’t even talk to you. $350? Are you kidding me?

So bless the electronic heart of the internet I found Tony at the Flying Dutchman Pump Rebuilders.

For a $130 he cleaned it, rebuilt the pump, including machining the shaft and surfacing the face plate, installed new stainless steel  springs and explained to me what was wrong and why these crappy pumps routinely fail and that I should use Super Lube grease when I change my impeller. Oh, and that includes shipping back to me.

And he painted it.

Tony and his crew are my heroes!

Flying Dutchman
Tony Coenradi
200 Davis Creek Road
Selma, OR  97538    USA
Toll free (U.S. and Canada) 1-888-595-1110
Tony@fdrbp.com
http://www.water-pump-rebuilders.com/

The Less-Than-Stellar Raw Water Pump

Close up of the old leaking raw water (seawater) pump.

The rebuilt pump!

 

Advertisements

The microwave

To complete the transition from the old propane GSI stove I’ve wired a new circuit and installed an microwave oven. Hardest part was routing the wire underneath the fridge and stove fiberglass liner. My arms aren’t long enough so I had to use a fish tape. Installed a GFCI outlet with a weatherproof box. The strap holds it from bouncing around but the oven slides a little bit on the glossy paint so I’ll have to fix that…

Microwave oven

Speed tips?

Some more newbie questions…
1) My boat is equipped for a cutter/staysail (it’s not rigged now) and came with a set of running backstays.  I get they are needed when I rig the staysail but how about without it?  Did the boat originally come with the running backstays and when do you use them?  Is there a way to look at mast bend or backstay pressure and see when you are in the range of needing the backstays?
2) Has anyone shared any go fast tips or tuning experience…any comments about real world vs the polars.
Jim (Sabrina)

Hi Jim,
We have check stays on our boat. These go from the aft corner to about 2/3 the way up the mast. Their function is to stop he mast from ‘pumping’ when going upwind in the chop with the backstay cranked on. In the Pacific Northwest we don’t use them all that much due to lack of wind/chop. It’s easy to watch the mast pump. In 15 knts+ go forward and sight up the front of the mast. Really put your eyeball right on the metal and focus about half way up. Can’t miss it going back and forth. Sort of spooky. A little bit is normal – say an inch or two – but anymore and I’d pull on the check stays. Remember to release them when you tack/gybe! On the check stay we have these EZLock rope clutches that anything but EZ! They defy logic and are a total pain in the ass if you ask me.
2) The polars are pretty close. We don’t seem to be quite that fast upwind but we’re close. The downwind angles seem to be good. My E34 doesn’t like to be pinched upwind. Footing of 5 degrees makes a world of difference to the VMG. That being said, without 5 people on the rail I don’t seem to be able to hang with the more weatherly boats. We do catch them on the downwind leg though…
Controlling weather helm is another big issues. Upwind I have one crew dedicated to working the traveler. In stronger winds the main will often have a large bubble in the luff. Reefing helps but a lot of times I’m just trying to get to the windward mark so I’ll suffer with being overpowered for a bit so I don’t have put in and then take out the reef. Lazy, I know!
The backstay is your friend for flattening the main as the wind picks up. I’m monkeying with mast rake as we speak to find the optimum balance.
Hope this helps
Greg S.
Wailana – Hull #1
Have anything to add? Reply below…

Spinnaker questions

From Jim H. on Sabrina. Please feel free to reply!

Hi…so I’m coming up on my first distance race…47 miles of the St Mary’s Governors Cup. Only flown the chute a couple of times and the previous owner didn’t use it so I didn’t get any pass down.

1. The downhaul for the bridle has two lines that run to both sides of the cockpit. Are both lines attached to the bridle? When reaching it seems like you really need a downhaul at the end of the pole to keep the leech tight…so maybe one of those lines can go to the pole end when reaching? Curious what the original intent was.2. Any experience with end to end vs pole dip jibing.

3. There were no twings provided…if anyone is using them how are they rigged?

Thanks

Jim


From Greg S. on Wailana

Hi Jim,
 
Sounds like a fun race!
1. On Wailana the two down-haul (foreguy) lines for the spinnaker run through pulleys in the middle of the foredeck and then attach to a block attached to the central point on the pole’s bridle. This is so you can adjust the downhaul from either side of the cockpit. See pics.
 
2. I tried dip pole jibing once on my boat and found that it was too cumbersome; too many lines and required too many crew who knew what they were doing. It was more complexity than I wanted to deal with. Of course I’m a chickens**t and don’t fly my chute in much over 16 kts. It might be a different story if I was the bowman trying to clip the sheet in 25 kts on a pitching foredeck!
 
3. I’ve got twings of 3/16″ line that just clip on with small carabineers and are run through small blocks on the rail near the widest point of the beam. They attach to small cam cleats on the cabin top.  I use them when it’s gets breezy to ‘slow my roll’ and help with gybing.
 
Do you have a reaching strut? It’s sometimes called a jockey pole and comes in handy when hard on the wind with the spinnaker. It holds the afterguy off the stanchion/lifelines.
 
I’ll post this to the website and see if anyone responds.
 
Good luck!
 
Greg S. – Wailana Hull #1

Anybody want my old Martec prop?

For the cost of shipping you can have my old Martec 16″ X 10″ RH folding prop. Fits a 1″ shaft.

It needs to be refurbished by Martec; cost = ~$300. This was the standard equipment I believe and would work well with the standard 18 HP engine. I would not recommend it with a larger engine.

Cheers,

Greg S. – Wailana Hull #1